{"id":1594,"date":"2026-09-11T11:41:53","date_gmt":"2026-09-11T17:41:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mocco.mx\/redaccion\/?p=1594"},"modified":"2026-09-11T11:41:56","modified_gmt":"2026-09-11T17:41:56","slug":"jw-anderson-ss27-ready-to-wear","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mocco.mx\/redaccion\/jw-anderson-ss27-ready-to-wear\/","title":{"rendered":"JW Anderson: SS27 Ready-to-Wear"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

JW Anderson <\/strong>present\u00f3 su colecci\u00f3n Primavera\/Verano 2027 <\/strong>no como un desfile en pasarela, sino como un lookbook fotografiado por Heikki Kaski<\/strong>, con direcci\u00f3n de arte de Hella Keck<\/strong> y estilismo de Benjamin Bruno<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"JW<\/span>
\n

Una marea embravecida, espuma blanca estrell\u00e1ndose contra una superficie oscura, un cielo gris que envuelve cada silueta. Cada look aparece varado en esa misma orilla construida en estudio, como si el mar hubiera depositado un vestuario entero en la arena.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u00bfQu\u00e9 es el lookbook JW Anderson SS27?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A diferencia de temporadas anteriores, JW Anderson <\/strong>suspendi\u00f3 sus desfiles de pasarela en 2026 para enfocar la marca hacia un formato editorial m\u00e1s \u00edntimo. El resultado es esta serie de fotograf\u00edas donde la curadur\u00eda<\/strong> -palabra que el propio comunicado de prensa de la marca describe como \u00abla principal herramienta creativa de Jonathan Anderson\u00bb<\/strong><\/em>– se convierte en el eje conceptual de toda la temporada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Esa idea de \u00abobjetos que la marea trae de vuelta<\/em>\u00bb se refleja en piezas ya conocidas del universo JW Anderson<\/strong>: el pantal\u00f3n fold-over y el twist jean que reaparecen renovados para esta temporada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un giro hacia lo est\u00e1tico <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Como es habitual en el trabajo de Jonathan Anderson<\/strong>, la elecci\u00f3n del elenco es parte de la curadur\u00eda de la colecci\u00f3n. Entre los protagonistas del lookbook destacan la ceramista Akiko Hirai,<\/strong> la modelo y actriz Dree Hemingway<\/strong>, el historiador del arte Dr. James Fox<\/strong>, adem\u00e1s del coleccionista Ivor Braka<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Frente a colecciones anteriores de JW Anderson<\/strong>, que apostaron por desfiles con gran carga perform\u00e1tica y escenograf\u00edas elaboradas en vivo, este giro hacia el lookbook fotogr\u00e1fico est\u00e1tico resulta notablemente m\u00e1s contenido, casi conservador en su ejecuci\u00f3n. Hay una paradoja de fondo: la marca que construy\u00f3 su identidad sobre el espect\u00e1culo y el humor visual ahora depende enteramente de la fotograf\u00eda fija, un formato que nunca puede capturar del todo el timing, la coreograf\u00eda o la energ\u00eda colectiva de un desfile en vivo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El arranque: movimiento y color de fantas\u00eda<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 01)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 02)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Look 01 entra en plena acci\u00f3n: una modelo en pleno giro, chaqueta de cuero marr\u00f3n<\/strong> sobre un vestido slip <\/strong>rosa p\u00e1lido, con una cartera bicolor rosa y verde que parece flotar en el aire. Es una apertura casi cinematogr\u00e1fica, lejos de la pose est\u00e1tica habitual. Justo despu\u00e9s, el 02 baja el ritmo con un top sin mangas<\/strong> de rombos en blanco y negro sobre denim claro parchado<\/strong>, rematado con calcetines de colores que asoman sobre zapatos planos: un gesto casual, casi dom\u00e9stico.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sastrer\u00eda Costera <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 03)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 04)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

El 03 trae la primera gran silueta masculina: gabardina larga camel<\/strong> sobre camisa blanca y shorts marrones, con un bolso de mano oversized y botas con estampado; una imagen que mezcla el uniforme de oficina con algo m\u00e1s n\u00e1utico. Retomando la idea de la chaqueta de cuero del 01 ahora en el 04, pero en un material diferente, ahora combinada con una falda gris de abertura lateral. La misma prenda reinterpretada<\/strong>, se\u00f1al de que la colecci\u00f3n piensa en variaciones<\/strong> m\u00e1s que en piezas aisladas o outfits cerrados.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El gesto teatral <\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 05)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 09)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

El look 05 es, sin duda, uno de los m\u00e1s extra\u00f1os y memorables: una figura mayor, torso desnudo bajo un blazer verde oscuro<\/strong>, pantal\u00f3n blanco amplio<\/strong>, sosteniendo una pieza textil blanca perforada como si fuera un trofeo o un pa\u00f1uelo gigante, en una imagen con carga casi teatral. Hay algo de humor y de dignidad rota al mismo tiempo. El look 09 retoma ese tono con un su\u00e9ter texturizado<\/strong> en rojo oxidado, posando con un pu\u00f1o en alto, una pose casi de resistencia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Denim y esp\u00edritu joven<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Image<\/figure>
\n

Foto v\u00eda: Vogue <\/p>\n\n\n\n

El 06 introduce una nota m\u00e1s joven y desenfadada: playera blanca con estampado de pato<\/strong>, shorts de mezclilla con cintura negra, botas y una patineta bajo el pie, un contrapunto perfecto a la solemnidad de otros looks. El 17, m\u00e1s adelante, retoma el denim en una chaqueta azul sobre shorts negros a cuadros, con una diminuta bolsa verde.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Punto y artesan\u00eda<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Image
Foto v\u00eda: Vogue (look 08)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 15)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 19)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Esta es la secci\u00f3n m\u00e1s ligada al oficio textil: falda plisada <\/strong>en capas (look 08), su\u00e9ter argyle<\/strong> en rojo, negro, azul y beige (look 15) y camisa de franela a cuadros<\/strong> verde oliva (look 19). Son gui\u00f1os al textil folcl\u00f3rico<\/strong> y a la manufactura rural, tratados sin caer en la nostalgia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cierre en capas y color<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Image
Foto v\u00eda: Vogue (look 21)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 22)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Image
Vogue (look 23)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La colecci\u00f3n cierra subiendo la temperatura crom\u00e1tica: abrigo oversized<\/strong> a cuadros rojo y negro (look 21), y su\u00e9teres a rayas <\/strong>multicolor en movimiento con bolsos<\/strong> verdes y sandalias<\/strong> amarillas (looks 22-23).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un experimento que solo Anderson puede costear<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Suspender los desfiles no es un gesto menor en un calendario donde la visibilidad en pasarela sigue siendo moneda de cambio para prensa, compradores y algoritmo. Jonathan Anderson<\/strong> (que dirige simult\u00e1neamente Dior<\/strong>, con el respaldo de LVMH<\/strong>) puede permitirse este experimento de un modo que una marca independiente m\u00e1s peque\u00f1a no podr\u00eda. La narrativa de \u00abvolver a lo esencial\u00bb<\/strong><\/em> suena distinto cuando quien la enuncia tiene ese colch\u00f3n econ\u00f3mico detr\u00e1s: puede leerse como convicci\u00f3n creativa genuina, o como un lujo reservado a quien no arriesga la supervivencia de la marca al tomarlo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Al final, lo que queda del lookbook<\/strong> SS27<\/strong> no es un desfile que aplaudir, sino una fotograf\u00eda que sostener contra la luz para ver qu\u00e9 esconde. Anderson<\/strong> elige el mar como escenograf\u00eda y no es casual; la marea trae de vuelta lo que ya conoc\u00edamos: el fold-over<\/strong>, el twist jean<\/strong>, el Donegal wool<\/strong>; vestido de novedad, como una ola que devuelve la misma arena una y otra vez, apenas reacomodada. Queda la pregunta de si esto es curadur\u00eda<\/strong> en su sentido m\u00e1s noble (cuidar, atender, dar forma con intenci\u00f3n) o simplemente el arte de nombrar bonito lo que, en el fondo, ya conoc\u00edamos. Puede que ambas cosas sean ciertas al mismo tiempo. Eso, quiz\u00e1s, es lo m\u00e1s honesto que ha dicho JW Anderson<\/strong> en mucho tiempo.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

JW Anderson present\u00f3 su colecci\u00f3n Primavera\/Verano 2027 no como un desfile en pasarela, sino como…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":1639,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_members_access_role":[],"_members_access_error":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[562,482,158,563,561,560,527,483,487,528,531,514,559],"class_list":["post-1594","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-week","tag-dree-hemingway","tag-fashion-month","tag-fashion-week","tag-ivor-braka","tag-jonathan-anderson","tag-jw-anderson","tag-new-york-fashion-week","tag-nyfw","tag-primavera-verano-2027","tag-semana-de-la-moda-de-nueva-york","tag-spring-summer-2027","tag-ss27","tag-vogue"],"yoast_head":"\nJW Anderson: SS27 Ready-to-Wear - 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